Q: Trim Clicks but will not work:
A: Relays / Bad connections / Trim motor
Q: Starter Solenoid Clicks no spin:
A: Solenoid / Starter / Bad battery cable connections / Weak battery
Q: Started Drags:
A: Battery Cable connections / Battery / Starter
Q: No Spinning of Starter Or Trim:
A: Bad fuse
Q: Motor Boggs:
A: Fuel restriction to motor / Carbs Dirty or misadjusted / timing not
advancing
Q: Motor Spits or Coughs:
A: lean fuel to air mixture / Dirty Carbs / Carbs not synchronized / Bad timing
Q:Hard Cold Start:
A: Choke Butterfly not closing tight / Primer choke not priming motor / Dirty
Q: Carbs
A: Motor not primed
Q: Hard to start after Hot:
A: VST vapor pump
Q: Motor Surges:
A: Fuel restriction / Ignition miss
Q: Runs a minute and Dies:
A: Fuel pump / Water in fuel
Q: High Speed miss:
A: Primary connections at coils / Weak Charge coil output / Faulty Power Pack
12 Volts in kill wire
Q: Primer Bulb Collapsed:
A: Fuel restriction from tank
Q: Solid Alarm:
A: Over heat / Fuel restriction
Q: Intermitting Alarm:
A: Low Oil in oil tank / No Oil flow on motor
Q: Excessive Battery Voltage:
A: Voltage Regulator
Q: Won’t exceed 2500 RPM and Shudders:
A: Motor is in SAFE mode / Over Heating / Oiling / Fuel restriction
Q: No Water from motor indicator, with no Alarm:
A: Plugged hose or outlet
Q: Hard Shifting:
A: Shift interrupter / Tight control cables / Corroded shift rod housing
Q: Grinds when shifting:
A: Worn Clutch dog and gear
Q: Will not go into gear:
A: Broken anchor on shift cable at control / Broken drive shaft / Bad hub in prop
Q:Vibrates in gear:
A: Bent prop shaft / Prop out of balance
Q: Bad Hole Shot:
A: worn Prop / Engine Promlem
Q: Motor not reaching full RPM:
A: Wrong Pitch Prop / Engine Problem
Q: Milky oil in lower unit:
A: Water
Q: Grey or Metallic Oil in lower unit:
A: Failure in gear case
Jack Stone is a wealth of knowledge on outboard motors, parts and repair. Check out his blog filled with in-depth discussions and tips on all things boat.
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